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I love California. It has such a strong contribution to the history of culture, and popular culture. For better and worse, of course. Even the worst can be interesting to some degree sometimes for somebody creative.
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The framework of men's wear is so narrow, that when you play at the edges you get labeled.
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I like the idea of paradox, between the authentic fabrics and sophisticated shapes and between masculine and feminine. I'm not so much for sportswear. I think it's over.
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David Bowie, for me, was the butchest guy in town. Jagger was like a truck driver.
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Since I was a child, my whole life has revolved around music. It's often while listening to a song that ideas for my fashion collections formed.
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People always want an explanation about everything and I cannot give it to them. Because I don't know myself. 'Why did you do a pair of pants like that?' I have no idea. I'm not going to have a 20-minute political discussion about the necessity for slashed, painted leather jeans. Basically, I don't know more than you.
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I like it to stay very organic, and to remember a personal story behind all my subjects.
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I shared this idea that fashion starts with a movement, an allure: elusive, defined through perfect proportions.
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I thought I should work more on the idea that you wear a suit or a jacket because of the fun it can provide, because it's a game, because it might even have a sexual quality.
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The perfect integrity of The NewYork Times, and its writers, is not precisely 'just silly nonsense...
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Music has shaped men’s fashion and transposed in a playful and witty manner its riding or military heritage. It is difficult to figure out who leads but music and fashion are connected genetically.
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I like the ritual, the liturgy of a well-crafted, emotional fashion show. I will never be jaded with this side of fashion. The catwalk is pure anthropology, something like an esoteric encrypted parade. It can totally be replaced but it will be missed.
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Men's fashion has a certain heaviness in the fabrics and construction. But also there is a heaviness in the mentality.
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Hedi was and is still misspelled Heidi and my perception of genders ended up slightly out of focus from an early age.
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I'm most interested in that moment when my entire perspective changes, and I have to reconsider everything.
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An athletic man, or whatever you want to call him, will only look good in a very classic suit, a pair of classic jeans, athletic clothes or simply naked. Forget fashion. This is not going to happen, unless you want to look like a Chippendales dancer in designer clothes.
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Together with the rise of the internet, September 11 and its aftermath has changed most of our lives.
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I started as a black-and-white teenage photographer, and I'm still there decades after. In some ways, the genre is almost gone. I am thinking of true, stubborn, lifetime black-and-white photographers, as opposed to black-and-white as a photographic commodity.
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I'm so personally attached to all the characters I met and photographed over the years ... the anthology is like a photographic reliquary that could potentially preserve their grace, fierce joy, and restlessness.
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I only like luxury fashion. You have to decide where you stand. I like well-made, authentic clothes, well-crafted tailoring. I also like the dream and fantasy of luxury, the exception and rarity of it. I have no interest at all in fast retail. It is ambiguous.
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I presume my work has also always been about reduction without any distraction or after effects, outside emotions, or intimacy or complicity with the subject.
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When I was designing, I had in mind Jimi Hendrix, and I could hardly find skinny indie black kids to wear my clothes. I remember one telling me he had to swap his skinny jeans for baggy ones in the subway before going home, so he wouldn't get in trouble in his neighborhood.
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I'd like men to think about evolving into something more sophisticated, more seductive. To explore the possibility of an entirely new masculinity.
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The iPad needs to catch up with Flash before I put a hand on it.