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Fortunately, I was given an incredible foundation from my independent mother. She showed me what was possible from a strong, loving woman.
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In Hawaii, the environment is fabulous. In Malibu, the people are fabulous. Our family unity is tight, and we have the Pacific Ocean outside our door in both places, so there is consistency.
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We're all equal before a wave.
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People always ask me when they see me working out, "What are you training for?" The answer is I'm training for life.
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We are our own worst inhibitors
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When I fly to Chile to surf or go snowboarding in Russia or some other adventure, I try to include the family when I can and go see friends along the way.
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California has more distractions, more activities for the kids, more driving.
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Normally, people who are frustrated out in the water are frustrated on land. They brought their frustration with them. If you go to a beach where there are a hundred guys out, and you paddle out looking to ride waves alone, you're setting yourself up.
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The idea is to become an old wizard; to live a long and fruitful life and have family and be healthy and enjoy the ride. And speaking of the ride, why not let it rip, at least a little bit? Everyone I know who's really stoked about getting out of bed in the morning does that to some extent.
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All training does is get us back what we lost when we stopped having to hunt down our food. Our bodies are built for it already.
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When you make a mistake, the ocean gives you an instant reminder. You get punished. If golf clubs could shock you every time you hit the ball wrong, we'd probably learn how to play golf pretty well.
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If you can look at one of these waves and you don't believe that there's something greater than we are, then you've got some serious analyzing to do and you should go sit under a tree for a very long time.
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I need a big wave to really excel. The smaller stuff is a bit like...ballet for me.
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When you don't use sugar in your diet, all of the sudden fruits are really sweet. Honey is really sweet. Your taste buds change. I'm not psycho never have anything sweet, because that takes too much energy. The stress on your body just isn't worth it.
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Travel's the great educator, especially for the girls. You can't put a value on it.
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If you just get out of your own way... It is amazing what will come to you.
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Exercising underwater also creates tremendous benefits by challenging your body in ways you can't on dry land.
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Make sure your worst enemy doesn't live between your two ears.
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Wiping out is an underappreciated skill.
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The biggest sin in the world would be if I lost my love for the ocean.
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Life with three daughters can be nerve-wracking, but it's amazing to be loved by so many different women.
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People don't want to do new things if they think they're going to be bad at them or people are going to laugh at them. You have to be willing to subject yourself to failure, to be bad, to fall on your head and do it again, and try stuff that you've never done in order to be the best you can be.
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Surfing's one of the few sports that you look ahead to see what's behind.
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Most men need their wives to need them, and I've seen that lead to their downfall